A Gulf Coast road trip in scenes, flavors, and impressions

Why this trip Happened at all

This journey had been waiting patiently on a shelf.

Two years ago, I wanted to spend Thanksgiving in Ocala with Jake, Liz and family. This is a tricky trip to schedule because Kathrin’s birthday is in the middle of November, and she will sometimes want to do something special. When I mentioned my desire, she did some research and found a road trip from New Orleans to Orlando online. We both liked the idea. The plan later fell apart when I learned that Jake and family wouldn’t be in Ocala for Thanksgiving. No big deal, we will just put this trip on the shelf and pull it back out when everything lined up. In 2025 the stars aligned and Kathrin and I took that trip off the shelf and dusted it off. 

Our plan was to spend 4 days in New Orleans, then hit the road for a tour of the Gulf Coast before arriving in Ocala. The trip would take us through 4 states. During the route planning we saw that Tallahassee was near the border to Georgia, so we decided to make it a 5-state trip, with an overnight stop in Thomasville, then swing by Valdosta on the way back down to Ocala. 

The Route: Following the Gulf (Mostly)

Our journey began in Frankfurt with an early departure for New York–JFK with Condor, followed by a connection to New Orleans on Delta. Flying standby meant monitoring seat availability and boarding priorities, and a bit of nervousness if we would make it, but in the end everything worked without a hitch, and immigration at New Orleans International Airport moved efficiently. At baggage claim, our suitcases were one of the first on the carousel, a welcome relief after the long travel day.

We planned an easy, relaxed route. Each day included short legs from one town to the next.

We stayed over night in:
New Orleans → Mobile → Panama City Beach → Pensacola Beach → Thomasville → Ocala

We hugged the Gulf Coast whenever possible, favoring U.S. Highway 90 and slower coastal roads over interstates. Mississippi surprised us first—quiet beaches, fewer tourist traps—until Gulfport announced itself with casinos and high-rise hotels. Alabama followed with historic downtowns and fascinating naval history, and set the record straight on Mardi Gras. Florida stretched out in beaches, and resort towns, while Georgia added small-town charm before coming back to Florida again.

New Orleans: Impressions in Daylight

While in New Orleans, we stayed at  The Old No. 77 Hotel and Chandlery. Strategically located between the French Quarter and the Garden District, it allowed us to explore mostly on foot or by streetcar. A multiday transit pass proved invaluable.

The French Quarter was our first foray into the city. In daylight, the area proved quieter than expected. Without music, crowds, or nightlife, Bourbon Street and Royal Street seemed ordinary. Balconies, iron railings, and shuttered windows stood out more than the people. The stroll through Jackson Square and past the St. Louis Cathedral was by far more interesting.

For the second day Kathrin found a tour of the Garden District on the internet where we could admire the luxurious houses of the city’s rich and famous. It was quite the contrast from the French Quarter. 

The houses were impressive, and thanks to the tour’s description, we got a good impression of the background and some noteworthy residences, along with a bit of history. John Goodman is a long-time resident here, and an ornate Swiss-style chalet is a second home to Sandra Bullock. 

About an hour into the walk, we found ourselves in front of a photo gallery. Kathrin was ready for a break, so I stepped in. The photographer/owner greeted me, and we had a friendly conversation about photography, the craft and its future in the age of content creation, as well as our own backgrounds in the art. 

I found Kathrin relaxing on a bench in front of the gallery, and we headed to Lafayette cemetery no. 2. We would have preferred cemetery no.1 but it is closed, so we chose the second-best cemetery instead. (Turns out even cemeteries have a ranking system.) It was in a state of disrepair, as was the surrounding neighborhood, but we got a good impression of New Orleans’ grave culture. 

Another place on our list was Mardi Gras World, near the Mississippi River. One call to the facility, and they sent a shuttle van to pick us up. We expected something closer to a museum. Instead, we found ourselves in what could only be described as Santa’s Workshop, if he had decided to pivot into indulgent parties. Inside the large warehouse halls, workers built, repaired, and painted floats for upcoming parades. Oversized figures, masks, and props stood stacked, suspended, or partially assembled. Our tour guide explained the process and history, though her accent made parts tricky to follow. She was a true Cajun! Still, the scale of the operation impressed us. On the way back, we took a short walk along the river. There is a cruise terminal here with countless shops, offering everything a cruise passenger might desire. There was only one thing missing–a cruise ship. This improved our experience considerably as we had the place pretty much to ourselves. Afterwards, we returned to the hotel for a rest.

Music, Nightlife, and Unexpected Surprises

People in the know go to Frenchmen Street for a night of music. Bourbon Street is left to the tourists. Almost every bar had a band playing, so it was a matter of having a listen at the window and deciding whether to go in. After sampling several places, I decided on one and sat at the bar. I found the music very satisfying, the frigid air pouring in from an air conditioner less. so. 

Kathrin joined me on a second night. This time we also strolled through the Frenchmen Art Bazaar, admiring the trinkets and art, then returned to the street, stopping to listen to a band here and there.

One night at Café Beignet, the music from a local band turned magical. People were ordering take away, but only a quiet crowd stayed for the music, which suited me just fine. During the second set an unexpected guest arrived: a man holding a toddler stepped up to the piano, and joined the band, playing chords with one hand while holding his baby with the other. After  handing off the child to his friend, he sat down and delivered a flawless, joyful performance. One song. Big applause. Gone.

Moments like that don’t make it into guidebooks.

History: Celebrated, Complicated, and Uncomfortable

For our last full day in N’awlins, we booked a combined tour to Whitney Plantation and a swamp boat tour. The bus ride took us west of New Orleans along the Mississippi River.  Our tour guide for the journey, an older gentleman, offered all kinds of interesting facts and history of the city, and various spots we passed. After an hour, we arrived at Whitney Plantation and were surprised that we were the only ones to get off. The rest of the passengers booked a tour of the Oak Alley Plantation. A beautiful, picturesque property that looks tailor made for Hollywood film shoots. 

Unlike the grand, photogenic Oak Alley Plantation nearby, Whitney Plantation confronts history directly. Names, stories, memorials—less beauty, more truth. The visit was sobering, emotional, and felt rushed at two hours. We could have stayed all afternoon, but the joint reservation limited us to two hours, which felt too short.

At 12pm our bus returned to pick us up. We headed to the parking lot of the Oak Alley Plantation for the rest of the group and ended up waiting for 45 minutes, which was a pity as we would have preferred to had that time at Whitney Plantation. During the time we chatted with the tour guide and the bus driver. At one point, I pulled out a bag of bite-sized Famous Amos chocolate chip cookies and offered them to our companions. The bus driver gladly took a few, and we became instant buddies. His neat appearance struck me; he was a well-presented young fellow who obviously took pride in his job.

The swamp tour followed thereafter. The landscape of water, trees, and low vegetation impressed us. We saw a lot of alligators, some coming very close to the boat, attracted by the chicken pieces on the end of a stick the boat driver held out. The alligators responded to bate with the enthusiasm of dogs hearing a can opener. We stopped a number of times on a river shore where the boat driver threw out some raccoon food, another popular resident of the swamp. While the setting was striking, the experience felt staged, leaving mixed feelings. Was this a wild swamp tour or a circus? rather the second we thought. The alligators and raccoons, at least, seemed entirely comfortable with the arrangement.

We made it back to New Orleans a little after 5pm. After a picnic dinner on the Riverwalk, we set off for the ferry, which is part of the public transportation system and included in the 3-day tickets we purchased on day 1 of our trip. We took the next available ferry, admiring the views, and then took the next one back. For us, it served as a sightseeing river ride, offering a magnificent view of the bridge and cityscape.

Mississippi, Our First Beach Sighting

My first impression of the beaches in Mississippi was that they lacked the tourist-driven commercialism you see in Florida, but then we reached Gulfport; that’s when the casinos and high-rise hotels showed up. 

Not long after lunch, we stopped at the Jefferson Davis Library and Museum, where a geocache lay hidden in the gift shop. After admiring his former house and some cannons, we got back on the road. Biloxi and its lighthouse was the next stop and made for some nice photo opportunities with a large flock of seagulls sitting on the ruins of a wooden pier.

Mobile and Naval Power

We arrived in Mobile in the dark, and found our hotel, a Holiday Inn in the center of town. At first, the receptionist couldn’t find our reservation that I made back at Ocean Springs. Once I gave her my reservation number, she found it. Somehow, I managed to reserve a room for December 6^th! In the end we got lucky to snag a room at all—the hotel was booked out. A high school wrestling competition had flooded the city with teenagers and their parents.

There wasn’t a lot to see the night we arrived in Mobile, except for the lovely Christmas light displays. Eventually we came across Mardi Gras Park, where we found a huge, loud Christmas Market with the usual vender booths, displays, and music. People brought lawn chairs to relax and enjoy the atmosphere. After a full day on the road, we weren’t so keen on noisy crowds so after a leisurely stroll through the place, we headed back to the hotel.

Before leaving the next morning, we wanted to have another walk around the neighborhood during day time. We passed the (still) closed Mardi Gras Museum and learned that Mobile hosted the first Mardi Gras back in 1702. After wandering through the streets; we came to Mardi Gras Park again, to find it all cleaned up and nothing remained of last night’s market. The inflatable booths made for easy setup and takedown. Across the street we saw Fort Charlotte, aka Colonial Fort Condé, a partially reconstructed 18^th-century fort built by the French. It too, was not open yet. We are early birds, which sometimes is unfortunate!

The Battleship USS Alabama and submarine USS Drum were highlights. I found it to be fascinating and took my time. Kathrin, for a change, had to wait on me! The ship is a floating, self-sustainable city. They had full mechanical, electrical, and plumbing shops, a surgery room, jails, and a small store. It really impressed us, however, we both agreed that life on board, especially for the enlisted ranks, was hard. Efficiency trumped privacy, with bunks stacked up four high in some places. The lucky ones, like the tailor, slept in their shops. I could easily imagine how demanding life on board a ship must have been.

The submarine tour, on the other hand, moved quickly, confined to a long, narrow tube. Life felt even harder here. Sailors slept in whatever corner they could find; some had torpedoes as bunkmates. 

Beaches, Resorts, Unreal Places, and the Capital in Florida

We made a brief stop before crossing the bridge to Pensacola Beach—quite a sight, by the way—to take a few photos. The place turned out to be a memorial park dedicated to America’s war veterans. It was beautiful and well worth a visit, and  offered a magnificent view of the bridge.

Our hotel in Pensacola Beach, the Sand and Surf Hotel, was situated right on the beach. It was already late afternoon, so we checked out some of the beach before dusk. We found a bar and grill right on the beach and enjoyed dinner  while watching the sun set over the ocean. By 5:30 the sky turned pitch dark, and not too long after we headed back to the hotel, satisfied with another beautiful day.

Hyatt Place Panama City, right on the sand, was the perfect place to enjoy the beach. Arriving at 2pm, we spent the rest of the day lounging by the ocean and the pool. 

Kathrin joined me for an early morning photo walk along the beach. The pier 50 yards away caught my eye, and I headed there for some shots. A beach is a peaceful place at sunrise; we had it mostly all to ourselves, just some other like-minded beach walker in sight. 

The holiday resort town of Seaside looks like it was built by Walt Disney himself. Everything a beach going family could want was offered here. We wandered around the boardwalk area and the small park with an amphitheater, soaking up the vacation feeling floating in the air.

At Jake’s recommendation, the next destination was Alys Beach. This place is unreal. The town is all white buildings, and the architecture really stands out. It reminded me of Santorini in Greece, though without the blue roofs. I had the feeling that the upper middle class go to Seaside, and the rich people vacationed here in Alys Beach. The only downside was a giant, two – story-tall banner of Trump, with a message saying, “To all my haters, just wait, there’s more to come.” We kept going. It felt like the correct response.

Tallahassee surprised Kathrin. She imagined more from a state capital. The city offered, rather, a small-town atmosphere. No towering buildings, no crowded city center, just a relaxed rhythm. We spent the afternoon walking through the historic area with antebellum houses and seeing the Capitol. The old historical building, which is now a museum, faces the main street and looked to me like a typical construction in the Sunshine State. The current seat of government lies behind this one and is much less inspiring. I came across a memorial to firefighters as we wandered around the courtyard area and sent a picture to Jake in his honor.

Small Towns and Slower Rhythms

Georgia’s contribution came quietly.

Thomasville and Valdosta offered courthouse squares, historic trees (the Big Old Oak), walkable town centers, with family-run shops, which provided a sense of community. After seeing them, Kathrin admitted she could imagine small-town life in the U.S, if she ever had to move.

That felt like a significant takeaway.

The drive continued southwards on the quiet country roads, until lunchtime, and we kept our eyes peeled for a restaurant. We saw a lake on one side of the road, with a development on the other side, but not a single restaurant to be found. Instead, on the opposite side of the highway, there was a diner called the Little Dog. Following our discussion of Trump’s statement concerning immegrants eating cats and dogs in Detroit, this spot held no charm for us. We decided kept on driving. 

And back into Florida

Not long after lunch, we crossed the border into Florida again, aiming towards Gainesville. I’d been here twice with Jake and Liz, but only to a specific place, not for sightseeing. This time we looked for some geocaches, which brought us to some historical sites. After about 2 hours of walking around, we thought about dinner. My “low Mexican food” warning light was on, but I couldn’t find a restaurant, so we drove on to Ocala. At this point, the country roads lost their charm, so we got on the Interstate and arrived in Ocala by 5pm, where we headed to the city center for dinner at a Mexican place I remembered. 

Eating Our Way Through the South

Food wasn’t just fuel—it was a cultural event.

New Orleans Highlights

Our first food experience in New Orleans, breakfast in our hotel, was the most expensive and most disappointing breakfast of our time in New Orleans. The uninspired cook prepared everything without flavor. It would be the last time we would take breakfast at the hotel.

In fact, breakfast proved to be the most varied of our daily meals. The next three days in New Orleans were quite good, but there were times on the road where the hotel breakfasts were so-so at best. 

We enjoyed the breakfast at Molly’s Rise and Shine, a popular morning spot in the Garden District. Getting there by bus took longer than expected because of street construction, but the breakfast made up for it. Twice as good and half the price of our hotel. It was Kathrin’s first taste of traditional biscuits and she was very fond of them, just not with gravy.
Mother’s Next Door, across the street from our hotel, offered a down home breakfast at this historical spot, I took a Mother’s special: grits, sausage and eggs, while Kathrin ordered scrambled eggs and biscuits (without gravy of course .) We also got two pulled beef sandwiches for lunch as according to the tour information the plantation does not serve any food.
We had our last breakfast in New Orleans at The Ruby Slipper, which turned out to be a brilliant choice. The super friendly and engaging server made for a special experience. He treated us like VIPs. Kathrin ordered scrambled eggs and biscuits again, and I think she liked it better than at Mother’s. Since they didn’t have her kind of tea, she chose a coffee instead–yikes! I decided on a delicious Spanish omelet.

For lunch one day, we went to Napoleon House on Chartres Street, a suggestion from ChatGPT. The restaurant had an old-world appeal, and, like most of the other guests, we sat in the courtyard, enjoying the relaxed atmosphere. The food was great – the exact opposite of our hotel breakfast. It offered a perfect pause before continuing on foot.
A must have in New Orleans are beignets, a deep-fried pastry of French origin and the best ones are said to be at Café du Monde at the edge of the French Quarter. So that was of course where we went later that day. The service ran well, notwithstanding the throng of customers. Our serving arrived hot, and generously dusted with powdered sugar. I tried the chicory coffee, but didn’t think it was so different from regular coffee. Nonetheless, it made for a very pleasant “Kaffee und Kuchen” stop, N’awlins style. 

Creole House gave us jambalaya, red beans, and rice—solid, local, satisfying.

On the Road

Our drive along the coast provided plenty of restaurant choices. We stopped for lunch at a place called Felix’s on the outskirts of Gulfport. The menu focused on seafood, which came as no surprise, and that left Kathrin with limited options. She decided on Brussels sprouts and potatoes, while I ordered a seafood quesadilla.

French Kiss Pastries in Ocean Springs looked inviting, so we made a “Kaffee und Kuchen” stop. Kathrin ordered an iced coffee, her new go-to drink to fight off jet lag. I got one for myself as well, along with a tasty treat. The friendly woman behind the counter impressed us. So far we are having nothing but pleasant experiences with the wait staff,

On our way to Pensacola Beach, we found a place called Manci’s Antique Club in Daphne  where Kathrin took a burger and I ordered grouper fingers. 

Dinner in Pensacola was generous. We found a beach bar and grill just down the beach from our hotel, and ordered some nachos and beer. The waitress sat a mountainous basket of nachos in front of us, overflowing with cheese, meat, and jalapenos. We enjoyed it all while watching the sun set over the ocean. By 5:30 the sky turned pitch dark, and at 6:30 we headed back to the hotel. Satisfied with another beautiful day. The buffett breakfast the next day was not as pleasant, especially for Kathrin. A multitude of plastic wrapped items were on offer, along with plastic cups, plates, and utensils. Kathrin stared in horror, as if the hotel had declared war on the environment.

After enjoying Pensacola’s seaside bar so much, we wanted a repeat performance.  Unfortunately, the Barefoot Hide-A-Way —a local Panama City spot with a Caribbean vibe—sat a little farther from the shoreline, though it still offered a view. We shared pulled pork tacos, washed them down with a beer, and soaked in the scenery for as long as the fading light allowed.

The Bud and Alleys waterfront dining, a beautiful beachside open-air restaurant in Seaside, Fl, offered a view of the ocean from our table, which helped pass the time while we waited for our food. The place was full and the staff was hustling. All in all, a very enjoyable stop. 

The quiet roads from Valdosta to Gainesville proved to be a restaurant desert. We saw a lake on one side of the road, with a development on the other side, but not a single restaurant to be found. Instead, on the opposite side of the highway, there was a diner called the Little Dog. Following our discussion of Trump’s claim that immigrants were eating cats and dogs in Detroit, this spot held no charm for us. We decided not to ask any questions. 

At long last, out of desperation and the lack of other choices, we stopped at a Hardee’s and ate some chicken fingers. That’s all I have to say about that.

Time With Family: The Point of It All

On our first day with Jake and Liz, they suggested dinner at a brewery in Gainesville, where we would meet up with Liz’s sister Jeanna, her husband Bobby, and some other family members. There was a live music event on their outdoor stage which should make for a good time, and food trucks line the parking lot. However only one food truck showed up, so after waiting for an hour for our order, we cancelled and went to everyone’s favorite Mexican restaurant instead, the name of which I can’t remember.

At last, the big event arrived. Angela, Liz’s mother and her husband Richard hosted Thanksgiving, with 27 people in attendance. Tables overflowed with food, wine poured freely, football played on television in another room, and conversations overlapped constantly. Kathrin and I brought some Christmas cookies–Cinnamon Stars, and they were a hit. In the evening, Richard lit a huge bonfire in the yard, drawing everyone outside, one advantage of living in the country. The chill in the air made the fire even more inviting. We all had a fantastic time. 

The days after Thanksgiving were quieter. We visited the World Equestrian Center in Ocala to see the annual Christmas lights. The WEC puts on a big festival on the weekends and charges an entrance fee after 3pm, so we arrived early to get in for free. Jake and Liz wanted to eat at the Yellow Pony pub on the property for a while, so that’s where we went. 

When we returned to the festival area at 2:30, to our surprise, an official told us we would have to leave the area and buy tickets if we wanted to stay, so that’s what we did. It paid off –  the place came to life in the evening with the Christmas lights on. We visited the Grinch and got pictures of the kids with him. They were excited, he was in a bad mood, go figure. 

Our last day included church with the family, Kathrin eagerly joined, having never experienced an American service; visits to Liz’ brother James grave; Indian food; and it was time to say good bye to everyone. 

At the airport, seat assignments looked far from ideal. We ranked low on the standby list, with little hope of getting a seat, but kept our fingers crossed. When we dropped our bags off, the woman at the counter said there was an aircraft change and we would make it even in business class…yay! Turns out she was wrong; we flew economy but we were glad that we made it at all. The flight was long but manageable. We arrived home tired, but without major complications. 

Epilogue: What Stayed With Us

Looking back, it was an incredible road trip from start to finish. Kathrin got a true taste of southern hospitality, and we both appreciated the unique charm, the food, and the unexpected little moments that made the trip memorable. The mix of lively cities, quiet towns, and scenic drives left us with plenty of stories to tell.