Preparation and Planning
A Challenge turned into a great solution.
This year, we decided to elevate our bike tour experience by exploring the glamorous French and Italian Riviera up to Genoa. I had always dreamed of visiting this iconic playground of the rich and famous, and now I was finally going to see it for myself.
As Kathrin began planning the trip, she ran into a recurring issue: bringing bicycles to this region and back home was proving difficult. Only regional trains allowed bikes, which meant a series of time-consuming transfers—if it was even feasible. After two weeks of getting nowhere, I suggested we drive to Avignon and make it a round trip. We could only ride as far as Monaco.
She wasn’t keen on the idea, as one of our key travel mottos is: we never go back. Instead, she explored the area and discovered that just beyond the Côte d’Azur lies the renowned region of Provence. Inspired, she mapped out a new route, and soon our trip began to take shape.
We would start in Avignon, heading south through the picturesque Camargue National Park. From there, we’d follow the Mediterranean coastline, stopping in Marseille, St. Tropez, Cannes, Villefranche-sur-Mer, and Monaco. Afterward, we’d turn inland to explore Provence’s iconic lavender fields, completing a scenic loop back to Avignon.
In the end, we loved this plan far more than the original idea—it felt like the perfect adventure.
The whole tour would be a lot more mountainous than any one before but with our new E-Bikes this should not be an issue. However to be sure that we, the bikes, and the batteries would be able to accomplish the planned stages we did several test rides in our local mountains.
A forecast of bad weather around our original travel dates led us to postpone the trip on short notice by a week—a decision that turned out to be wise for several reasons.
Day 1: Frankfurt to Avignon
An uneventful trip.
When the big day finally arrived, we packed up the car, waved goodbye to Frankfurt, and set off for Avignon. For much of the journey, we had the roads to ourselves, only encountering more traffic closer to our destination. We counted ourselves lucky on that front. We arrived in Avignon, found a great quiet spot to park the car, and biked the short distance to our hotel in the heart of town. To our surprise, the receptionist was a dual American-French citizen whose parents, both diplomats, had been posted in Washington, D.C., where he was born and raised. He knew Reston, my old hometown, well, and we hit it off immediately. The warm welcome and the charm of the hotel left us with a great first impression of the city.
After dropping off our bags, we set out to explore. We’d booked two nights here to give ourselves plenty of time to take in this historic town, once home to the popes. That evening, after wandering around the palace area, we settled on a touristy spot for a three-course dinner. Here we learned our first lesson in French dining: Thou shall not share a multi-course meal. When Kathrin finally argued she wasn’t planning to eat, the waiter, after some hesitation, brought out both the starter and main course together, setting a plate for each of us. For dessert, he even provided two spoons.
Day 2: Avignon
Papal history and a famous bridge.
The next day, we toured the Papal Palace, which exceeded our expectations. Each visitor receives a tablet called a “Histopad,” offering a virtual tour with augmented reality views of how the rooms looked in the past. Brief descriptions and a built-in treasure hunt made for an engaging experience.
Our combo ticket also included entry to the Pont d’Avignon, the famous medieval stone bridge that stretches halfway across the river. Over the centuries, floods repeatedly destroyed parts of the bridge, and eventually, the town abandoned repairs, leaving it a beautiful yet incomplete landmark.
After a a dose of history we were hungry and had dinner. During our evening walk afterwards Kathrin found her Kathrin found her 8,000th cache—congratulations!, and I captured more photos of the Pont d ’Avignon from the other side of the river.
Day 3: Avignon to Arles
Short ride to a famous place.
The next morning, we packed up our bikes and headed to Arles, known for its Roman ruins and connection to Van Gogh. The bike ride was short and uneventful. Our hotel, Hotel du Forum, was located in a small square on the site of the ancient Roman forum, with remnants of an arch in one corner. Across the square was the yellow café famously painted by Van Gogh. It was lunchtime, so we chose a restaurant in the square and enjoyed a delicious pizza. Every dish that passed by looked tempting, so we decided to return for dinner.
Day 4: Arles
In the footsteps of Van Gogh.
We began our day in Arles by exploring the Roman ruins, starting with the well-preserved arena. It was fully accessible, and I explored every corner, imagining the gladiators and wild animals that once filled these passages in front of thousands of spectators. Next, we visited the theater, which was less intact but still fascinating. Several busloads of schoolchildren arrived during our visit, adding a lively energy as they prepared for a ceremony where some students received medals.
The rest of the day was spent following in the footsteps of Arles’ most famous artist Van Gogh, visiting sites that inspired his paintings and even the hospital he stayed in, which is now an artist colony and tourist attraction. While biking around town, we noticed an unusual high-rise building. A nearby geocache led us to it and explained it was designed by architect Frank Gehry, who also designed some apartment blocks in Goldstein, adding a personal connection to our experience in Arles.
We finished our tour and checked in at the hotel just as it started to rain. The receptionist had trouble finding our reservation but eventually upgraded our room to a spacious suite with a king-sized bed. As we looked out at the downpour from our window, we were grateful for our double luck, escaping the rain and the upgrade. By dinnertime, the rain had stopped, and we went out for crepes—a sweet ending to the day.
Day 5: Arles to Saintes-Maries-de-la-Mer
An unexpected spectacle and flamingoes.
The next morning, as we were checking out, the receptionist told us about a parade passing by the hotel as part of a local event. We joined the crowd as men, women, and children dressed in historical costumes marched by, some playing flutes and drums. They stopped in the square to honor a poet memorialized there. After much fanfare, a man and woman arrived on horseback to great excitement. Later, we learned it was the Guardians’ Festival, a tribute to Saint George, the patron saint of horsemen.
We left Arles after the event, heading to Camargue Regional Park, famous for its flamingos, white horses, bulls, and infamous mosquitoes. Thankfully, we didn’t encounter mosquitoes, but we saw plenty of flamingos and a few horses and bulls. It was really beautiful. As we rode through the park toward our hotel, a strong tailwind propelled us at 20 kph, sparing us the need to pedal. Around noon, we found a holiday resort with a restaurant and stopped for a hamburger lunch.
Our target for the day was the small vacation town of Saintes-Maries-de-la-Mer. It had a carousel, food stands, bars, casual restaurants, and a small stadium all not very impressive, but it made for a convenient stop after our day in the park. The hotel was comfortable, with friendly staff and a bike garage equipped with charging outlets.
Day 6: Saintes-Maries-de-la-Mer to Martigues
Rough roads through the National Park
We continued along the park’s coastal paths, but the trails were rougher than expected. Soft sand in some sections forced us to push our bikes, while other parts were rocky and full of potholes. It felt like navigating an obstacle course. But the beauty of the nature made up for all the discomfort. We saw more flamingoes, and cycling on strips of land we sometimes had the sea on both sides. A family we encountered warned us about an especially difficult section, so we detoured onto a paved road. Eventually, we reached a ferry crossing over the Rhone River. By then, I was feeling unwell—likely from something I ate. My strength was fading, and I had stomach cramps, making the journey difficult. We took a brief rest after the ferry, where I sipped water and nibbled on a lentil cracker. Unfortunately, the final stretch was through an industrial area, offering little distraction from my discomfort.
At last, we reached Martigues, our next overnight stop. It was another vacation town, though more appealing than Saintes-Maries-de-la-Mer. I was too exhausted to explore and collapsed in bed for a long nap. By evening, I felt well enough to venture out, and we found a place selling margarita pizza to go, though I only managed two slices before heading back to bed.
Day 7: Martigues to Marseille
Delayed start with a difficult entry into a cultural melting pot.
The next morning, feeling somewhat better, we had leftover pizza and bread for breakfast. Soon after, we realized one of the bike batteries hadn’t fully charged. We delayed our start until it reached 60%, finally setting off at 9 a.m. toward our next destination.
Marseille, the third-largest city in France, is also the country’s biggest cultural melting pot, largely due to its role as a major entry point for people from Africa. Our arrival in the city, however, wasn’t ideal. Several times, we faced route decisions that led us through industrial zones, sharing the road with heavy car and truck traffic. It was far from enjoyable, but we pushed through and finally made it to the city center. By lunchtime, we were at Marseille’s old harbor, where we finished off yesterday’s pizza.
With our nerves settled after the hectic entry, we visited the Palais Longchamps. Despite its name, it isn’t a palace but a grand water reservoir built in 1835 after a cholera epidemic. We enjoyed exploring the grounds, strolling around the park, and stopping for ice cream before heading to our hotel to drop off our bags.
Our next stop was Notre Dame de la Garde, Marseille’s iconic hilltop church. Offering spectacular views of the city and coast, it’s a must-see, albeit bustling with tourists. Afterward, we returned to the hotel to check in and left our bikes to charge while we set out on foot.
Our walk from the hotel to the harbor was a highlight. Marseille, much like New York City, reveals its rich blend of cultures at every turn. We soaked in the vibrant atmosphere, enjoying the lively, diverse scenes along the way.
As dinnertime approached, we began our search for a restaurant. This wasn’t easy for Kathrin, since most places around the harbor focused on seafood or sweet crepes. Eventually, we found a spot with a tempting chicken dish in mushroom gravy. The waiter let us know the kitchen would open in 15 minutes, so we passed the time with a Panaché (a blend of beer and sparkling lemonade) and a beer.
When our meal arrived, we knew we’d chosen well—it was delicious and satisfying. Afterward, I walked Kathrin back to our room, grabbed my camera, and headed out for my usual evening photo walk.
Day 8: Marseille to Cassis
Short ride, relaxing and fireworks.
We said goodbye to Marseille and headed to the small town of Cassis. Though it’s not far from Marseille, the next major city, Toulon, was too distant for a single day’s ride. Leaving the city limits, we entered Calanque National Park—a stunning coastal stretch between Marseille and Cassis, lined with deep coves and dramatic cliffs reminiscent of Norway’s fjords. Cassis turned out to be a perfect choice. This laid-back beach town was peaceful and relaxing.
Our room at the Best Western wasn’t ready yet, but we were welcome to use the pool. While bringing in our bike bags, I struck up a conversation with a friendly Englishman who was eager to chat about his travels with his wife. Later, Kathrin and I changed into our swimsuits and relaxed in a poolside gazebo, enjoying our sandwiches.
After a couple of hours of relaxing and swimming, our room was finally ready. The hotel was nice, but our room was quite small, reminding us of our RV trip, where we had to carefully coordinate our movements. It was a sharp contrast to the spacious room we had in Arles. Once we settled in, we took a walk along the town’s coastline, which ended at a long, deep harbor filled with boats (you can watch my drone video here.) The scenery here was truly impressive.
A few hours later, we returned to the harbor to look for dinner. This time, we didn’t want a repeat of our long search in Marseille. We stopped at the first place that looked appealing. The meal was good, though not extraordinary. Afterward, we treated ourselves to dessert crepes. The harbor area had a festive atmosphere—busy, but not crowded enough to feel uncomfortable.
I returned from my usual photo walk just after 9 p.m. As Kathrin was getting ready for bed, we heard an explosion, followed by another. It turned out to be a fireworks show, so we quickly threw on trousers and ran down to the main room overlooking the terrace. We found a spot among the other guests and enjoyed a stunning display. It was a delightful surprise, a perfect end to a wonderful day.
We still don’t know the reason for the fireworks, but we suspect it was related to the Olympic flame, which was scheduled to pass through Cassis the next morning.
Day 9: Cassis to Toulon. Bumping into the olympic flame and more stunning views.
We enjoyed a leisurely breakfast the next morning, seated at a table overlooking the terrace and pool area—very pleasant. The lady at the reception had “warned” us about an event that would take place this morning. The Olympic flame would come through Cassis on its relay through the country before the games would start this summer in Paris. What a lucky coincidence. By 8:30, we had found a spot among the other spectators lining the street to watch the event. Soon, the entourage appeared, followed by the star of the show. The torchbearer strolled down the street, passing the flame to the next person in the chain. The crowd was small enough that we, along with several others, managed to snap a selfie with the new torchbearer. We couldn’t believe our luck.
Leaving Cassis was a bit tricky due to the parade route, but we eventually made it out. Our second obstacle came in the form of a steep, challenging uphill road to the top of a cliff. Kathrin had to even get off the bike and push several meters. But it was worth the effort as once on top we were rewarded with fantastic views of the coastline. The road stayed mostly on the plateau with sharp curves and varying elevation. Each curve presented spectacular views of the sea on one side or the mountains on the other. It was breathtaking. Even Kathrin’s fear of heights couldn’t stop her from admiring the scenery.
We arrived at our hotel in Toulon right at 3 p.m., check-in time, but the receptionist was absent, so we waited a few minutes for him to return and unlock the door. He offered us a garage for our bikes, but it was down a steep cellar, so we declined and locked them outside. We were lucky again and given a room upgrade, which was a nice surprise. The superior room was… okay, we wondered how the regular rooms would look like. Walking down the hallway felt like being at grandma’s house—clean, but with an old smell and slightly dated furnishings.
The hotel offered a rooftop pool, and we were eager to take advantage of it. What had sounded luxurious turned out to be a tiny hole on a very small terrace —barely big enough for four people to stand in. We moved chairs around to the small spot of shade and made ourselves comfortable. I took a dip in the pool, which did help cool me off after the day’s ride.
Toulon, home to France’s largest naval base and the Mediterranean Fleet HQ, was a big city with less of the cozy charm of Cassis. As we walked around, I noticed a sense of caution and distrust among the locals. Crime seemed to be a concern, but I told myself I was just being paranoid. On a positive note, the streets were adorned with Olympic-themed artwork on the sidewalks, showing that all of France was getting into the spirit. I also found several photogenic spots in the city, so I couldn’t complain too much.
Day 10: Toulon to St. Tropez/Sainte-Maxime
Theft and a playground of the rich and the famous.
The next morning, my suspicions about the city were confirmed. While packing up, I realized I had left my GoPro on my bike, hidden in a drink pouch. I hoped it might still be there since it was out of sight, but unfortunately, it was gone. Someone had thoroughly searched our bikes and taken it. It was an expensive mistake, but I didn’t want it to ruin the trip. It was just some video footage, and I still had my camera.
This was our longest stage—80km from Toulon to St. Tropez. Kathrin was especially concerned, so we planned to charge our batteries during lunch, if we could find a place to do so. The ride, however, was surprisingly easy. We followed the well-maintained Parcour Cyclable du Littoral, a bike path which included sections of a former train line, offering moderate ups and downs, and even some tunnels. Progress was good, and our battery levels were holding steady. The bigger challenge was finding a bakery. By noon, we’d covered 53km and found several geocaches, but no bakery. We decided to swap batteries since mine had 10% more charge. At 1pm, we reached Cavallère-sur-Mer, where Kathrin wanted a photo with the town sign, as both Jonas and Leon had visited this place before, which we’d learned just before leaving. We finally found a Carrefour, bought some cheese and bread, and ate it on a bench by the promenade in the bright sun. The overcast had completely cleared, and we were now baking in the heat.
Shortly before 3pm, with more battery life than expected, we arrived in St. Tropez, the famous playground of the rich and famous. We stopped at the town square to see a golden statue of Brigitte Bardot, who put the town on the map. However, we weren’t too impressed. It looked quite ordinary, with a harbor full of expensive yachts and throngs of tourists. Wondering what had made it so famous we strolled along the harbor, visited the citadel, and then waited for a ferry to our final stop, Sainte-Maxime. This town offered as much as St. Tropez, but with a more relaxed vibe and affordable prices.
A highlight of our stay was the host and hostess at Hotel du Chardon Bleu. The husband-and-wife team were welcoming and personable, making check-in a pleasant experience. I enjoy connecting with locals, and he made it easy. He proudly showed us his garden, an inner courtyard with trees, and introduced us to his “gardener”—his wife. He then offered to store our bikes in a locked room behind the kitchen, where we could also charge them. Impressed by us, he upgraded our room to one with a balcony—our third upgrade of the trip.
We walked around town, enjoying the sights, when we came across a park where people were playing petanque, so we decided to watch for a while.
Day 11: Sainte-Maxime to Cannes
History of WWII and red carpet.
The next morning, his wife prepared breakfast and was as pleasant as could be. Unfortunately, the weather wasn’t great, with light drizzle falling. She checked the forecast, which predicted the rain would stop in an hour. While Kathrin caught up on some reading, I enjoyed a pleasant conversation with our hostess. True to the forecast, after about an hour, the rain cleared, and we were able to continue our journey.
About an hour out of Sainte-Maxime, we approached Saint-Raphael. A creperie on the beach promenade caught our eye, so we decided it would be the perfect spot for lunch. We had savory crepes with ham and cheese, enjoying them on a bench with a view of the beach. Looking past the harbor, we noticed a stunning church towering over the other buildings. We couldn’t resist making an impromptu stop to take a quick look and find a nearby geocache.
A short time later, we reached a beach with an island featuring a tower (Île d’Ore). We headed to the shore for a better view, and I couldn’t resist flying my drone for an overflight (watch the video here.) It was a bit nerve-wracking, but the drone handled it with no issues. As we left, we spotted American, French, and UK flags at a memorial, where we stopped to take pictures. We learned it commemorated the US 36th Infantry Division landings at Dramont.
As we continued, the scenery changed. The coastline shifted from sandy beaches to dramatic red rocky cliffs—beautiful! We later discovered this area is part of the Estérel National Park, and the road we were on is known as the Corniche d’Or (Golden Corniche). It was a breathtaking ride, but the winding road made Kathrin a bit nervous.
We arrived in Cannes on the opening day of the International Film Festival—what luck! We walked our bikes through the heart of the festivities, giving us the chance to take it all in. We stopped at the red-carpet area, the Festival Hall, and other iconic locations, all less crowded since it was still early afternoon. After soaking in the sights, we rode uphill to our accommodation, B&B Villa du Roc Fleuri. When we arrived, we found a locked gate and a steep staircase leading up to the house. I called the contact number, and a friendly woman answered, offering to help getting our bikes up there which was quite tricky… She was used to carrying bikes up the stairs as her family are bikers, and she accustomed to getting both bikes to the terrace. We were impressed with the accommodation and, lucky for us, since she had a gap between bookings during the festival, we got the flat at an off-peak price.
For dinner, we returned to the city center and found a charming outdoor table. The atmosphere was relaxed as we enjoyed our meal, watching the parade of film festival attendees—a wonderfully entertaining spectacle. Afterward, Kathrin headed back to the hotel, while I decided to check out the festival buzz. By then, crowds and paparazzi had gathered, eagerly awaiting the arrival of celebrities. Although I was too far away to recognize anyone, it was thrilling to watch the elegant procession of limousines and the flashes of cameras. The excitement in the air was contagious. After soaking in the lively scene, I strolled through the town a bit longer before making my way back to our cozy B&B.
Day 12: Cannes and Villefranche-sur-Mer
Rain and nice to be in Nice.
The next morning, we had the best breakfast so far: warm porridge, omelet, yogurt, fresh nectarine, and homemade muffins. Kathrin especially loved the chai. After packing up, we opened the door to find rain. We waited in the room, but when the cleaning turned up we couldn’t extend the stay any longer. By that time the rain nearly stopped and only a little drizzle was left. But just back downtown, a heavier downpour forced us to take shelter for about thirty minutes. We finally started off in a slight rain but after some more kilometers it had completely stopped and we could take off our rain-gear. By lunchtime, we were in Antibes and found a sandwich shop called Emily and the Cool Kids. We couldn’t resist, and the sandwiches were delicious.
Our target for the day was Villefranche-sur-Mer, but we first stopped in Nice (you can get a glimpse of our arrival here.) It was a cool, overcast day, so the beach wasn’t inviting, but the city was exactly what you’d expect from the glamorous French Riviera. We spent a few hours exploring, strolling through lovely parks, Place Masséna, the Promenade du Paillon, and the historic old town. Nice has an Italian flair, as it was once part of Italy, changing hands a number of times until 1860 when it officially became French after a referendum. While Nice could easily fill four days of exploration, we were on a schedule, so we said farewell at the I Love Nice sign and cycled on to our final destination.
Half an hour later we were at our hotel, La Regence. It was simple, but nice. We had a balcony that overlooked the street and the distant ocean. After settling into our room, we headed to the harbor to look for dinner. We found a quiet, out of the way restaurant that had an appealing menu.
Afterwards I went on my usual evening photowalk while Kathrin went back to the hotel and wrote down her thoughts of the day. The town has some cozy streets to wander through and photograph, but nothing monumental.
Day 13: Monaco
Concrete jungle and Formula 1.
Breakfast the next day was disappointing, with just a piece of bread, butter, jelly, and a hot drink. The weather was also disappointing, raining until noon. We waited it out in our room, catching up on notes and reading. By lunchtime, we grabbed a sandwich from the bakery across the street and enjoyed it on our balcony. When we finished eating, all the rain had stopped and the sun came out, so we set off for Monaco.
The ride was scenic, passing small casinos, Cap Ferrat, and luxurious neighborhoods. Arriving in Monaco was the opposite. — Roads like highways with heavy traffic, no bike lanes, no signs for orientation. After a stressful ride we eventually found a place to stop and began searching for a place to park our bikes, which was challenging as every space was blocked by parked vehicles and riding around the busy streets made it even more stressful. In the end we found a place and it was clear that cycling around town was not an option, we had to explore the place on foot.
Our first stop was the palace, where we arrived just in time for the changing of the guards. Afterward, we took in the view of the city, struck by how densely packed it was—buildings, streets, and sidewalks covered every inch. We wandered through a small park, which provided a welcome break. From there, we had a great view of the harbor.
The log of the first geocache we found mentioned the city’s preparation for the Formula 1 race coming up on May 25th, just 10 days away. We took a mental note, keep our eyes open but it turned out that we could not have overlooked it. The whole town was under construction to prepare for the event.
We walked down to the harbor, passing the pit stop areas where drivers’ names and photos marked each stall. The scene was impressive. Through all the barriers it was challenging to find our way and we had to take a of detours.
As Kathrin was very exhausted by the time we returned to our bikes we decided to cycle to explore further and see Monte Carlo, home of the famous casino. We plotted a route however, it proved to be a huge challenge to get there—one-way, steep, and winding streets full of cars, leading us in the wrong direction, with no way to turn around. So we had to take an alternate route: a downhill sidewalk with about 100 steps. It was extremely strenuous carrying our bikes down. We finally reached the casino but also the end of our strength and nerves.
The stressful ride had dulled our impression of the casino’s over-the-top opulence. After snapping a few photos, we noticed the sky darkening and just wanted to get out of this place. .
This time, the one-way streets worked in our favor. Kathrin spotted a sign pointing us toward the route we had come from, so we followed it through a series of tunnels and roundabouts. It was a bit unnerving to navigate on bikes, and we could’ve easily gotten lost without the signs. Luckily, we made it out safely and returned to the hotel just before the rain began.
It was our last night on the French Riviera, and we didn’t have high expectations for dinner. We headed down to the harbor area and chose a restaurant we had noticed the day before, Le Cosmo. It seemed touristy, but we decided to give it a try. To our surprise, it turned out to be fantastic. The burrata and chorizo entrée, as well as the linguini main dish, were both delicious.
Our past experiences with sharing dishes in French restaurants hadn’t always been great, but this place was very accommodating. In high spirits, we decided to indulge in dessert and shared a Crepe Grand Marnier, which was flambéed at our table. It was the perfect way to say goodbye to the French Riviera.
Stay tuned for part 2 – our trip through the Provence. As always, if you would like to see more of my photos from this trip, head over to my flickr page (they are organized in albums by city)
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